Tapai is Sabah's traditional fermented rice wine — a sweet, mildly alcoholic drink brewed in ceramic jars by the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples for centuries. It's the drink of Kaamatan (the harvest festival), weddings, and ancestral ceremonies. If you want to taste indigenous Sabah, tapai is where you start.
What is tapai?
Tapai is a fermented beverage made from glutinous rice, a natural yeast starter called sasad (also known as ragi), and time. Cooked rice is cooled, mixed with crushed sasad, then sealed in ceramic jars (tajau) or glass containers for 7-14 days. The yeast converts the rice starches into sugar and alcohol, producing a cloudy liquid that ranges from 5% to 15% ABV, depending on age and technique.
The flavour is unmistakable — sweet, slightly sour, with a yeasty warmth similar to unfiltered Japanese sake or Korean makgeolli. Older batches turn drier and stronger; younger batches taste almost like dessert. Kadazan elders can judge a tapai's age by smell alone.
Two dialects, one drink: Kadazan-Dusun speakers call it tapai, while some Dusun sub-groups use tapui. Both refer to the same product.
Tapai, lihing, or montoku — what's the difference?
These three drinks come from the same fermentation process but represent different stages. Knowing the difference helps you order correctly and understand what's in the jar.
| Drink | What it is | ABV | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tapai | Fermented rice mash — cloudy, sweet, chunky | 5-15% | Casual drinking, ceremonies |
| Lihing | Clear rice wine drained from tapai | 10-15% | Sipping, cooking (lihing chicken) |
| Montoku | Distilled spirit from lihing | ~40% | Shots, special occasions |
| Sikat | Second-pour lihing (weaker) | 5-8% | Casual family gatherings |
In practice, villagers drink all four from the same jar over a few days — tapai first, lihing after, sikat at the end, and montoku saved for guests or special occasions.
Why tapai matters at Kaamatan
Tapai is the drink of Kaamatan, Sabah's harvest festival held on 30-31 May every year. The festival gives thanks for the rice harvest — and tapai, made from that same rice, is the symbolic offering. No Kaamatan celebration is complete without it.
At KDCA Penampang during the festival, dozens of stalls sell tapai and lihing by the jar, cup, or bamboo vessel. Families bring jars from home. Elders offer the first cup to the spirits of the rice fields (Bambaazon) before anyone drinks. It's poured freely during the Sumazau dance, Unduk Ngadau pageant, and communal feasts.
Tapai also plays a role in ritual. In traditional Kadazan-Dusun cosmology, rice is sacred — a gift from Huminodun, the maiden whose sacrifice created the harvest. Fermenting rice into tapai and sharing it with the community is both a celebration and an act of thanksgiving.
How tapai is made
Traditional tapai-making takes about two weeks and is usually done in village households, not factories. Here's the short version:
- Cook glutinous rice — about 2-3 kg per batch. Spread on banana leaves to cool.
- Mix with sasad starter — crushed yeast cakes made from rice flour, ginger, and local herbs. The sasad recipe varies by family and is often passed down generations.
- Pack into a jar — traditionally a ceramic tajau (Chinese-origin dragon jar), though glass or plastic jars work too.
- Seal and wait — 7 days for young, sweet tapai; 14 days for stronger, drier tapai; months or years for premium lihing.
- Drain lihing (optional) — tilt the jar and collect the clear liquid that separates from the mash.
The critical ingredient is sasad quality. Good sasad produces clean, fruity tapai. Bad sasad produces harsh, vinegary results. Village women who make their own sasad are regarded as master brewers and their tapai commands higher prices at tamus.
Where to try tapai in Sabah
You don't need to know anyone local to try tapai — these are the reliable spots, in order of authenticity.
| Place | Area | When | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| KDCA Penampang | Penampang | Kaamatan (May 30-31) | RM5-10 per cup |
| Donggongon Tamu | Penampang | Thursday mornings | RM25-40 per 1.5L jar |
| Tamu Kota Belud | Kota Belud | Sunday mornings | RM25-50 per jar |
| Gaya Street Sunday Market | Kota Kinabalu | Sunday mornings | RM30-50 per jar |
| D'Place Kinabalu | Kota Kinabalu | Daily (restaurant) | RM15-25 per glass |
| Tamu Tamparuli | Tamparuli | Wednesday mornings | RM25-40 per jar |
For the best experience, visit Penampang during Kaamatan — the atmosphere, the dancing, and the free-flowing tapai turn it into one of Sabah's most memorable cultural experiences. See our Kaamatan Visitor Guide for logistics.
Tips for tourists and first-timers
- Start small. Tapai tastes sweet but hits harder than beer. One cup (about 200ml) is enough to feel it.
- Eat while you drink. Pair tapai with hinava, tuhau, sinalau bakas (smoked wild boar), or linopot (rice wrapped in leaves). The food slows the alcohol and balances the sweetness.
- Drink water alongside. Tapai dehydrates faster than beer because of the sugar load. Alternate with water.
- Not halal. Tapai contains alcohol. Muslim visitors should avoid it.
- Ask before photographing ceremonies. Elders sometimes offer the first cup as a ritual to Bambaazon (the rice spirit). Photograph only with permission.
- Taking tapai home? Jars leak during flights. Double-bag them or look for sealed commercial bottles at KDCA's souvenir shop.
Frequently asked questions
What is tapai in Sabah?
Tapai is a traditional fermented rice beverage brewed by the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples of Sabah. Glutinous rice is mixed with a yeast starter (sasad or ragi) and fermented in ceramic jars for 7-14 days or longer. The result is a sweet, mildly alcoholic drink (roughly 5-15% ABV) served during Kaamatan, weddings, and community ceremonies.
What is the difference between tapai, lihing, and montoku?
Tapai is the fermented rice mash itself — the starting product. Lihing is the clear rice wine drained from tapai after fermentation, typically 10-15% ABV, used for drinking and cooking (especially lihing chicken). Montoku is the distilled spirit made from lihing — clear, strong (around 40% ABV), and often compared to Japanese shochu.
Is tapai halal?
No — tapai contains alcohol from natural fermentation and is not halal. It is brewed and consumed by Sabah's non-Muslim indigenous communities, primarily the Kadazan-Dusun, Murut, and Rungus peoples. Muslim visitors should avoid it; non-Muslim visitors are welcome to try it during Kaamatan and other cultural events.
Where can I buy tapai in Kota Kinabalu?
The most reliable places are Donggongon Tamu in Penampang (Thursday market), Tamu Kota Belud (Sunday market), Gaya Street Sunday Market in KK, and cultural restaurants like D'Place Kinabalu. During Kaamatan (May 30-31) KDCA Penampang has dozens of tapai stalls. A 1.5-litre jar costs RM25-50 depending on quality and age.
Is it safe for tourists to drink tapai?
Yes, tapai from reputable sellers at tamus, KDCA, or established restaurants is safe to drink. Buy from sellers you trust, start with a small cup (it is sweeter and stronger than it looks), and avoid homemade batches of unknown origin. Drink plenty of water alongside — tapai dehydrates faster than beer.